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The SXV guide cameras are marvels of miniaturisation.  Which means there is not much room to work with!

Also remember this will totally void any Starlight guarantee.  And as ever with any instructions on this site, I do not guarantee that the instructions are correct or will work!


To remove the PCB's two screws need to be removed and the hex spaces that run the length of the camera also need to be removed.  The plan is to introduce a Peltier cooler and heatsink under the CCD.  So the first task is to remove the CCD.



Its worth marking which way round the CCD goes as it won't work if put back in upside down!!  As the Pelt and heatsink are about 5mm think we need someway to raise the CCD from the board.

These DIL headers from Framos in the UK have the right pin spacing for the CCD and give a suitable increase in clearance from the PCB.

As the power leads to the pelt need to come out of the back of the camera some holes need to be drilled in the front PCB.  Its worth checking where the tracks run.

Next we have the heatsink.  This passes heat from the hot side of the pelt to the metal parts of the camera.  As PCBs conduct heat quite well this part might not be essential.

Now the pelt goes in with some thermal compound.   This pelt is from RS components 189-1576.  Its can be run at up to 2V 2A  and is about 9mm square.

Now the CCD can go back.   It gets a bit messy with the paste so covering the ccd with a bit of plastic keeps it clean.

Put the case back together after fitting an optical window to the front.  A circular microscope slide cover slip worked well for me.  Next make a power supply for the pelt. 




The Poor Meadow Dyke Galleries are now open.  




See the full range of Atik cooled CCD cameras for astronomy on the Atik Website


Copyright 2006 Steve Chambers. All Rights

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